Monday, 6 August 2018

ONE ISLAND, TWO PEOPLE, THREE CORNERS AND FOUR STATES. PART 1 Fraser Island.


July 1st the truck - a 60 Series Sahara Landcruiser which was later known as the Trucktor, was packed to the roof and the roof was also chockers.

1.5 fridges, 1 freezer, 2 swags, 2 stretches, a WebberQ, 2 gas bottles, solar panel, spare tyre, utensil box, dry food box, clothes bags, pillows, beach bags, hot water bottle, “washing machine”, chairs, tables, all Kevys truck stuff, lolly box, cameras, 2 drawers chockers and so much more. Even the drinks were tetris’d into the spaces.
Thankfully I like lists and we didn’t forget anything.


Leaving the Gold Coast behind at 7am we headed up the M1 towards Fraser Island.  We let the tyres down and had a light lunch at Inskip Point before boarding the barge. 

Within 30 seconds of landing on the island – there was my first beach puppy (dingo)! I was so excited. What a way to start day one! It was only going to get better.

We found this perfect campsite within the sand dunes at Winnam, which looked over the ocean and the airstrip for the light aircrafts. This would be our home for the next 8 nights. 

Although we were right on the beach – it was slightly hidden from beach level for some privacy. It didn’t stop the wind from the ocean though.
Nights were freezing and as soon as dinner was done and I had played a few games of solitaire – I was in my swag getting warm.

It was the first time I had ever slept in a swag – and I LOVED it. My bright pink swag as just perfect. It was warm and so comfy! And now being home writing this – gee I miss sleeping in it.
Some nights I had to use my “electric blankie” – hot water bottle. It was so cold every night of our trip I slept in 2 trackies, 3 t-shirts, a hoodie and socks. I don't do the cold. 
Kev didn’t feel the cold as much and only had jocks and his beanie on in his swag. I don't know how he did it.

We placed our camp chairs on the edge of our lookout, cracked open our beer & ciders and watched the whales breach right in front of us.
Around 100 whales over the next week were absolutely spectacular! At one stage 1 whale was beaching so many times, we gave up counting after 10 breaches and left him to it. We were so blessed to see such an amazing sight.

We waved at the buses and other campers as they came and went – everyone was so friendly.
One day we drove passed a bus who was bogged in the sand on the beach, its passengers were out trying to push. It was so funny to watch.
A few days later, we caught up with the driver who recognised our truck at Eli Creek, had a good chat and a laugh.

Although the weather during the day was sunny, the wind was so cold and on some nights it rained. It was winter after all. I still wore my hoodie and snow jacket everyday. My snow boots came in so handy and super glad I bought them along.

There were stunning sunrises and the even better sunsets. Every night there was a orange star in the sky to our south-west. He would be our guiding light throughout our trip. We made sure we saw him every night.  

We toured almost the whole island averaging 100+kms. Every day was something different. The crystal clear waters of Eli Creek for breakfast one day, at the tip of Sandy Point for lunch another. There we saw a Shovelnose shark in the water while Kev was fishing. Which was annoying as I really wanted to go into the warm-ish, crystal clear waters off Fraser Island while waiting for the tide to drop.  

Stopped at Indian Head for breakfast another day – where 2 beach puppies were also enjoying a fish they had caught.
Champagne Pools was so pretty. If it wasn’t so cold and packed full of people, I would have gone in. Next time!  
Indian Head was also a great spot to climb and sit while the sun set behind us and while looking for whales.

Ngkala rocks wasn’t a challenge at all. Especially when Kev is driving. He just went flat out. And I mean as fast as he could go. I had to hold on. But apparently you have to go fast so not to get bogged. And watching others go through slow – I now know that he was right!

Driving through the Land of the Giants and seeing the massive Tallowwood trees was awesome. The scenery of the whole island differed so much every few mtrs. From beach scrub with Banksia trees and kangaroo tail bushes, then moss growing on the tracks and the temperature dropping dramatically with the sun barley being seen through the dense scrub. Then striking shaped Squiggly Gum Eucalyptus trees. 

At Central Station the water was so clear, you can not determine the depth of it. Massive trees and Staghorns. Great history about the logging and sand mining on the island.  

The sand dunes, pillars at Red Canyon shaped from the wind and the colours of each layer. Photos just didn’t do them justice. 

The coffee rock is just as its name is. It rubs off just like instant coffee. It is super soft. You are not allowed to drive on it and watching stupid P Platers driving their shitbox Jeeps on it was so disrespectful to the island.

The walk up to the lighthouse nearly killed us, however the views were impressive. I wouldn’t do it again – getting too old for that steep climb.

The drive across to the other side of the island was an experience.
The tracks are soft and bumpy, like you are in a washing machine. You just go with the flow. But again the scenery is completely different. The water looks over to Hervey Bay and is so calm and peaceful. Urangie Wharf was so pretty. Although the wharf is no longer there, you can still see where the ferry once moored. Moon Point was at low tide and we got slaughtered by sand flies. Another great place for lunch.
Kev got a bit of damage to the trucktor on the tracks, breaking off a front wheel guard and a mirror cover. But no other damage to it.
Kingfisher Bay was really pretty walking along the wharf.


The SS Maheno was just like you see on Google. The sand had washed out a far bit so a lot of the “tinny” was on show for us. Different times of the day really made this boat stand out. Loved driving past so many times and seeing her. It was a very popular tourist spot. Always someone there taking photos.

The Beach Puppies are very inquisitive animals. Yes I agree with the hundreds of unnecessary signs that you do need to be wary of these dogs, HOWEVER I strongly do not agree that scare mongering visitors to the island about the dingoes is necessary.
Almost every day we encountered a dingo. Not at any stage of our whole trip were these animals aggressive. If anything – they were scared of humans. 
We did have one beach puppy with an ear tag (which means they have been reported as a nuisance) come very close to everyone while we were fishing or standing around. He was not aggressive in any way and was only attracted to the smell of dead fish around. But he did not pose a threat to anyone!

On one night I didn’t do the dishes – during the night a resident dingo decided they wanted a new food bowl and tried to take off with one of Kevys’ dishes. It was quiet funny really. Cheeky things!
I still would not ever recommend trying to feed or pat them. You can get close enough to take a photo without harming them and yourself. We even made up a shadow puppet for the beach puppy LOL

As we were leaving the island we came across a beach puppy howling. It was the most incredible experience ever. Both of us have never seen one doing this and was in ore.  

Lake McKenzie was so pretty. And the water was freezing bloody cold! Not as many people there as normal Kev said, I still thought there was a fair few. Not many in the icy cold waters though. Although it took a bit of convincing, I finally got in.  I thought – I’ve come this far.. I have to go in. Once in, it was ok. I think my body was so numb it got used to it.

There are signs everywhere staying no food or drink at the lake – I think this is crap and didn’t take notice of the signs. I enjoyed my V at the water’s edge.

Went up to a lake in the middle of the island – Lake Allom, and saw the turtles. I wish we had taken some food for them. Just sitting there watching them was so peaceful and great to see so many of them just swimming around. Hint -  Tapping your foot in the water attracts them closer.

As we were camping in the dunes, there were no facilities. Yep we had to dig a hole for our toilet. No biggy as we were bush camping.. But after a few days of not having a shower.. I was hanging to wash the salt out of my hair and I had sand everywhere.. We drove up to Dundubara, it was the best $6 I have ever spent. HOT showers. Felt so clean afterwards. I knew it was going to be another few days until our next hot shower. 
We washed our clothes in a makeshift washing machine. In a plastic screw on lid container, we tied it to the spare wheel and by the end of the day, it had washed our clothes perfectly, thanks to the roughness of the tracks.

Kev went fishing most days catching nothing. One day he got lucky and caught a Flathead and something so small I don't know what it was, then a big Tailor. We kept that one and had it for breakfast the next day. Something different but was nice. A group of young guys were on a role and each cast out – they caught a fish and each catch they yelled out “Legend!!” it was funny to watch.

Now here’s a tip for everyone.
We have all seen the washed up coconuts on the beaches. I don't think anyone has ever thought -  lets open one up. Until now.
Kevy decided that he would try it. I could smell a “dog poo” stench coming from it as he cut away the husk. And then he cracked into the shell letting the coconut water spill out. Well OMFG I instantly threw up all over the sand. The smell was beyond anything I have smelt before. I would say it would be like a decomposing human body. And yes it was that bad.
He couldn’t get the smell off this hands for a while. I would have set my skin on fire to remove that stench. I think he learnt his lesson.

It was time to pack up our site and onto our next massive adventure. Wash the salt off the truck and fill up the tank.

Fraser Island -  what can I say.. This was my first trip here and I will definitely return. You were everything and so much more.

3 Corners.. Here we come.