Normally it’s a beach Christmas vacation for me, but due to
the recent fires on the far north coast of New South Wales – a Plan B was needed.
The adoptive in-laws suggested I go visit them in the quaint
town of Tenterfield. Only being there briefly in 2018 I decided to unpack the
car of my camping gear and embrace the county township for the week.
Little townships consisting of a dodgy looking servo, a caravan park and a set
of train lines that haven’t been in use for many years.
You’ll even see cool yet very wonky bridges. Deemed very unsafe and surrounded
by fences.
Even the main town of Stanthorpe is bypassed. Which is also a hot spot for
speed cameras - pretty sure I’ll get my
photo in the mail soon.
When you see the random dinosaur – look up to the left and you’ll see a farmer
was harvesting his magic mushies when he decided to make a pyramid out of granite.
Passing by the well kept weatherboard old federation houses – typical of a
little town in the middle of bum fuck nowhere yet on a major highway right through
the middle of the main street where the speed limit is 40km/hr.
Pulling into the folks place
- no one was home. I was greeted by the barking dogs who were very happy
to see me and although I was busting for a wee, they couldn’t open the door to
let me in.
Later that night with an empty bladder and having unpacked
my snacks we all decided to go to the Christmas night markets. Seeing it on
Facebook - the market sounded like a
good night out. Stalls, games, a band, dancers, face painters, food & bbq
and so much more. I might put something nice on and do my hair. I love markets
and this I was really looking forward too.
Well the 25 mins we were there, it was umm.. disappointing to say the least.
9 stalls, a sausage bbq which reminded me of work, some over price homemade
items and then the “band” - a DJ playing Dance Monkey. I think there would have
been 20 people attending – including the 4 of us. So much for locals supporting
locals. We came, we saw, we left. We tried.
As Tenterfield seem to be failing me – we decided to head
out to the surrounding townships. Glenn Innes and the onto Emmaville.
Emmaville became famous for its sightings of a black panther in 1958.
It also has 2 pubs – one we had a nice lunch at – not the one with the demented
panther on the sign.
But what this 2 horse town has is a Gem museum.
From the outside it’s a small shop - nothing exciting and really didn’t excite me.. Then I went in.
From the outside it’s a small shop - nothing exciting and really didn’t excite me.. Then I went in.
Its $2 each and WOW –they have 1000s of gems, stones, crystals and STUFF!
It just keeps going and going. Ron the old dude – who looks like he was a first settler there, owns most of the items here. He has heaps of info to give out and its keen for a chat. Room after room is filled with history and more and more sparkles.
It just keeps going and going. Ron the old dude – who looks like he was a first settler there, owns most of the items here. He has heaps of info to give out and its keen for a chat. Room after room is filled with history and more and more sparkles.
Along the fire ravished roads were massive boulders just perched there,
tinkering in precarious ways. Little rock wallabies sit in the shade. Cows
walking along with their new born and just standing in the middle of the gravel
road letting out longful moos. Groups of horses looking like they haven’t had a
decent feed in weeks wandering up to the truck looking for a pat and some
snacks.
All we wanted was to find some water – but the area has been in a drought for
so long, there was only stagnate rock pools with algae and a dead smell
lingering.
We cleared out some crevices and filled the bucket with some dirt and made our
way back exploring the country side and seeing the regrowth of eucalyptus
leaves sprouting through the charred bark.
It’s the day before Christmas and the town was a buzz. Coles
car park was full as people rushed to get their last snacks for the day. All of
the shops were open till “late” some even open to 6pm. The fairy lights were on
and we had beers in hand while listening to Christmas carols from a time before
I was born.
The temp was dropping and it was starting to rain. Lucky I took my trackies and
a hoodie.
Spending this time with them was wonderful and so glad I spent this Christmas with them and not alone.
The smell of the meats cooking away in the bbq – even the vegans would have
been converted.
I ate so much I went into a food coma for 3hrs – best nap I’ve had in a long
time – once the dog stopped annoying me at the door.
Then it was Boxing Day. Also known as my home time day.
But first my other mummy suggested we head into town and check out the shops.
As everyone knows – Boxing Day is known across Australia for its bargain sales.
Once again I did my hair and put on some lippy. Grabbed some cash and headed
down the street.
As we drove down the Bruxner Highway aka Main Street, we saw people walking around
and then it became apparent that only 2 shops were open. Umm wait what... Only
2 shops open??
A cafe and a clothing store. That’s it.
Not the bakery. Not the chemist. Not the newsagency. Not the other 4 cafes. No
other clothing stores. No restaurants. Hairdressers, hardware stores all
closed. Sure the 2 pubs and the servos were open. But not a single shop open on
one of the busiest retail days of the year. Coles was open – because they have
to be. The cheap shop next-door was open and had all their Christmas items 50%
off.
I have cash to spend I WANT to support this struggling township.
Even their website says “The
Tenterfield Region offers a unique shopping experience. Browse through gorgeous
boutiques and giftware stores in the main street of Tenterfield. There is also
a fabulous range of speciality stores where you never know what you might find.
There are ample opportunities to find that unique souvenir or gift....”
Ok – then maybe OPEN for us tourists to shop there. I wanted a souvo and to
look at the pretty dresses I see in the windows.
A town that is struggling with a major water crisis and recent fires.
A town that has pretty much nothing to offer.
A town that people are forced to drive through as there is no bypass - yet.
A town that has pretty much nothing to offer.
A town that people are forced to drive through as there is no bypass - yet.
This town has beautiful parks and heritage buildings. It has
the oldest and biggest known cork tree in Australia. It also has the biggest un-shorn
sheep in Australia. Poor thing would have been dying in that heat.
The locals are friendly – but don't give the
wave back when driving past.
Tenterfield CAN have lots to offer – it just doesn’t.