OVER THE HILLS AND FAR FAR AWAY

Normally it’s a beach Christmas vacation for me, but due to the recent fires on the far north coast of New South Wales – a Plan B was needed.

The adoptive in-laws suggested I go visit them in the quaint town of Tenterfield. Only being there briefly in 2018 I decided to unpack the car of my camping gear and embrace the county township for the week.

It’s a 4hr drive from the Gold Coast to Tenterfield. Travelling through the hills - hills now scared by wild intense fires, past farm lands filled with skinny cows and sheep with their spring lambs. Passing the copious amounts of dried up dead roos on the side of the road.

Little townships consisting of a dodgy looking servo, a caravan park and a set of train lines that haven’t been in use for many years.

You’ll even see cool yet very wonky bridges. Deemed very unsafe and surrounded by fences.

Even the main town of Stanthorpe is bypassed. Which is also a hot spot for speed cameras -  pretty sure I’ll get my photo in the mail soon. 

When you see the random dinosaur – look up to the left and you’ll see a farmer was harvesting his magic mushies when he decided to make a pyramid out of granite.

Coming into Tenterfield the street is lined with lush green foliage trees. Currently in full bloom thanks to the heavy rains only a few weeks ago.

Passing by the well kept weatherboard old federation houses – typical of a little town in the middle of bum fuck nowhere yet on a major highway right through the middle of the main street where the speed limit is 40km/hr.

The smoke was so bad – you couldn’t see the hills or 100mtrs in front. Even the paddock across the road was hidden by low lying smoke. This lasted a few days and my throat wasn’t impressed.

Pulling into the folks place  - no one was home. I was greeted by the barking dogs who were very happy to see me and although I was busting for a wee, they couldn’t open the door to let me in.

Later that night with an empty bladder and having unpacked my snacks we all decided to go to the Christmas night markets. Seeing it on Facebook -  the market sounded like a good night out. Stalls, games, a band, dancers, face painters, food & bbq and so much more. I might put something nice on and do my hair. I love markets and this I was really looking forward too. 

Well the 25 mins we were there, it was umm.. disappointing to say the least.

9 stalls, a sausage bbq which reminded me of work, some over price homemade items and then the “band” - a DJ playing Dance Monkey. I think there would have been 20 people attending – including the 4 of us. So much for locals supporting locals. We came, we saw, we left. We tried.

   

As Tenterfield seem to be failing me – we decided to head out to the surrounding townships. Glenn Innes and the onto Emmaville. 

Emmaville became famous for its sightings of a black panther in 1958. 

It also has 2 pubs – one we had a nice lunch at – not the one with the demented panther on the sign.

But what this 2 horse town has is a Gem museum.
From the outside it’s a small shop -  nothing exciting and really didn’t excite me.. Then I went in. 

Its $2 each and WOW –they have 1000s of gems, stones, crystals and STUFF!
It just keeps going and going. Ron the old dude – who looks like he was a first settler there, owns most of the items here. He has heaps of info to give out and its keen for a chat. Room after room is filled with history and more and more sparkles. 

It was a bloody hot day there and some of the exhibits were just too hot to spend time looking at – but we promised him and the volunteer that we will be back again. Wont by buying another $6 sticker for the car though. This place was just unreal and worth a drive to visit this.

Still nothing was happening in Tenterfield, so I put on my brand new boots and headed with my snacks and copious amounts of blackcurrant juice water out and about to the granite belt towards Drake, fossicking for some gold and treasures. 

Along the fire ravished roads were massive boulders just perched there, tinkering in precarious ways. Little rock wallabies sit in the shade. Cows walking along with their new born and just standing in the middle of the gravel road letting out longful moos. Groups of horses looking like they haven’t had a decent feed in weeks wandering up to the truck looking for a pat and some snacks.  

All we wanted was to find some water – but the area has been in a drought for so long, there was only stagnate rock pools with algae and a dead smell lingering. 

We cleared out some crevices and filled the bucket with some dirt and made our way back exploring the country side and seeing the regrowth of eucalyptus leaves sprouting through the charred bark. 

Since the fire went through, you can see so many new things and you never know what you might find when you get out and trek through the bush. Just mind your step!

It’s the day before Christmas and the town was a buzz. Coles car park was full as people rushed to get their last snacks for the day. All of the shops were open till “late” some even open to 6pm. The fairy lights were on and we had beers in hand while listening to Christmas carols from a time before I was born. 

The temp was dropping and it was starting to rain. Lucky I took my trackies and a hoodie.

Christmas day had arrived. I was surrounded by friends and family. Everyone got gifts they all loved. I got a snack bag and powdered milk! 2 things I love!!
Spending this time with them was wonderful and so glad I spent this Christmas with them and not alone. 

The smell of the meats cooking away in the bbq – even the vegans would have been converted. 

I ate so much I went into a food coma for 3hrs – best nap I’ve had in a long time – once the dog stopped annoying me at the door.

Then it was Boxing Day. Also known as my home time day. 

But first my other mummy suggested we head into town and check out the shops. As everyone knows – Boxing Day is known across Australia for its bargain sales. 

Once again I did my hair and put on some lippy. Grabbed some cash and headed down the street.

As we drove down the Bruxner Highway aka Main Street, we saw people walking around and then it became apparent that only 2 shops were open. Umm wait what... Only 2 shops open??

A cafe and a clothing store. That’s it. 

Not the bakery. Not the chemist. Not the newsagency. Not the other 4 cafes. No other clothing stores. No restaurants. Hairdressers, hardware stores all closed. Sure the 2 pubs and the servos were open. But not a single shop open on one of the busiest retail days of the year. Coles was open – because they have to be. The cheap shop next-door was open and had all their Christmas items 50% off. 

I have cash to spend I WANT to support this struggling township.

Even their website says “The Tenterfield Region offers a unique shopping experience. Browse through gorgeous boutiques and giftware stores in the main street of Tenterfield. There is also a fabulous range of speciality stores where you never know what you might find. There are ample opportunities to find that unique souvenir or gift....”

Ok – then maybe OPEN for us tourists to shop there. I wanted a souvo and to look at the pretty dresses I see in the windows. 

But you know what I did find – a town that has the opportunity to embrace their visitors, but doesn't. 

A town that is struggling with a major water crisis and recent fires.
A town that has pretty much nothing to offer.
A town that people are forced to drive through as there is no bypass - yet.

This town has beautiful parks and heritage buildings. It has the oldest and biggest known cork tree in Australia. It also has the biggest un-shorn sheep in Australia. Poor thing would have been dying in that heat.

The locals are friendly – but don't give the wave back when driving past.

It also has my family there. They are the biggest draw-card for this town. And for that reason I will be going back later next year when they’ve had some decent rain to fill the streams and the fruit trees are laden. Maybe then the water will be safe to drink. I’d also like to try that dress on I saw in the window and have a coffee and cake at the cafes. Lucky I have my snacks.

Tenterfield CAN have lots to offer – it just doesn’t.